How to Change a Tyre: Your Step-by-Step Guide

Summary

• Prioritise Safety: Pull over to a level, safe spot away from traffic. Never change a tyre on a motorway's hard shoulder.
• Prepare the Car: Apply the handbrake, put the car in gear (or Park), and loosen the wheel nuts while the wheel is still on the ground.
• Follow the Steps: Use the jack correctly at the specified jacking points, swap the wheel, and tighten the nuts in a star pattern before lowering the car fully.

It starts with a sound. A rhythmic, unsettling thump-thump-thump that seems to get louder with every rotation of your wheels. Then comes the feeling—a sloppy, vague sensation through the steering wheel. Your stomach sinks. You’ve got a flat tyre.

First off, don’t panic. This isn't a disaster; it's an inconvenience. And it’s one you can absolutely handle. For about half of UK drivers, the thought of changing a tyre is a complete mystery, but it doesn't have to be.

Let's walk through this, step-by-step, like we're having a coffee. No jargon, no complicated diagrams. Just what you need to know to get it done safely.

First, and Most Importantly: Safety on the Roadside

Before you even think about reaching for a wrench, your number one job is to get yourself and your car somewhere safe. This is non-negotiable.

Find a Safe Spot

Pull over to a hard, level, and safe place, well away from flowing traffic. A quiet side road or a proper lay-by is perfect. Avoid stopping on bends, hills, or anywhere that makes you hard to see.

A Quick Reality Check: It’s better to drive slowly for another half-mile on a flat tyre to reach a safe location than to stop somewhere dangerous and risk your life. Your wheel rim can be replaced; you can't.

What About Motorways?

Simple. DO NOT change a tyre on a motorway hard shoulder. It’s incredibly dangerous. Fast-moving traffic, including huge lorries, creates a vortex that can literally pull you off your feet. Every year, people are seriously injured or killed doing this.

If you get a flat on a motorway:

1. Pull onto the hard shoulder (or an Emergency Refuge Area on a smart motorway) as far left as you can.
2. Turn your wheels to the left.
3. Switch on your hazard lights.
4. Get everyone out of the car through the left-hand doors.
5. Get behind the safety barrier and walk up the embankment if possible.
6. Call for breakdown assistance. Let the professionals handle it.

The Toolkit: What You'll (Hopefully) Find in Your Boot

Alright, you're parked safely. Now, what tools are you working with? Pop the boot and have a look under the floor carpet. You’re looking for a few key items:

• A Spare Wheel: Is it a full-size one that matches your other wheels? Or is it a skinny-looking thing? That's a "space-saver," and we'll talk more about those later. Many modern cars don't have a spare at all, instead offering...
• A Puncture Repair Kit: A small compressor and a bottle of gungy sealant. It's a temporary fix for small punctures in the main tread of the tyre.
• A Jack: This is what lifts the car. It might be a "scissor" jack (which looks like a diamond) or a small bottle jack.
• A Wheel Wrench (or Brace): For undoing the wheel nuts.
• The Locking Wheel Nut Key: This is the most important—and most easily lost—piece of the puzzle. It’s a small, socket-like tool with a unique, jagged pattern on one end.

What if I don't have a spare wheel?
If you only have a repair kit, it’s only good for small punctures in the main tyre tread. A big gash in the sidewall? The kit won't help. In that case, your only option is to call for roadside assistance.

The Main Event: A Step-by-Step Guide for Humans

Ready? Let's get this done.

Step 1: Prepare the Car

With the car safely parked, make sure the handbrake is on tight, and the car is in first gear (or 'Park' for automatics). If you have them, place wheel chocks (or a couple of sturdy bricks or rocks) against the wheel diagonally opposite the flat one. This is a simple but vital step to stop the car from rolling.

• Flat tyre: Front left
• Chocks go: Behind the rear right wheel

Step 2: Loosen the Wheel Nuts (The Smart Way)

This is the trick everyone should know: loosen the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground. The weight of the car stops the wheel from spinning as you heave on the wrench.

If you have plastic wheel covers (hubcaps), pry them off first. Then, fit the wrench onto a nut and turn it anti-clockwise ('lefty-loosey'). Don't take the nuts all the way off! Just "crack" them loose—a half-turn is usually enough. They might be stiff, so don't be afraid to use your body weight.

Step 3: The Jack - Where on Earth Does This Go?

This is where most people get flustered. Don't just stick the jack anywhere! Your car has specific, reinforced jacking points designed to take the weight. Jacking on a random bit of the floor can punch a hole right through it.

Your car’s handbook is your best friend here. It will have a diagram showing you exactly where the jacking points are. They are usually located on the sill (the metal seam running under the doors), just behind the front wheel or just in front of the rear wheel. You'll often see a little notch or arrow indicating the spot.

Place the jack on flat, solid ground directly under the jacking point. Slowly and carefully, start winding the jack up until the flat tyre is completely off the ground. You'll need a good 10-15cm of clearance, as the inflated spare will be bigger than the flat one.

Step 4: Off With the Old Wheel

Now that the wheel is in the air, you can finish unscrewing the nuts you already loosened. Do it by hand. It's a good idea to take the top nut off last, holding the wheel with your knee to stop it from falling.

Carefully slide the wheel off the hub and lay it flat on the ground out of your way.

Step 5: On With the New Wheel

Lift the spare wheel and line up the holes with the studs on the hub. It can be a bit heavy and awkward, so take your time.

Slide it on, then put the wheel nuts back on and tighten them by hand until they're snug. This is just to hold the wheel in place.

Step 6: Lower Down and Final Tightening

Slowly lower the car using the jack until the spare tyre just touches the ground. Now, with the wheel unable to spin, use the wrench to fully tighten the nuts.

Crucial tip: Tighten the nuts in a diagonal or star pattern. This ensures the wheel sits flush against the hub. Don't just go around in a circle.

Once they're tight, lower the car all the way to the ground and remove the jack. Give the nuts one last check for tightness.

Step 7: Tidy Up and Pat Yourself on the Back

Stow the flat tyre, jack, and tools back in the boot. You've done it!

The Weird Questions You Were Afraid to Ask

Let's tackle some common head-scratchers.

• "My wheel nuts are ridiculously tight!"
  You might need more leverage. A 'breaker bar' is the best tool, but in a pinch, a strong piece of pipe slipped over the handle of your wrench can work. A few sharp taps with a mallet on the wrench handle can also help break the seal. As a last resort, penetrating oil can be sprayed on stubborn, rusty nuts.
• "What is this weird little key for?"
  That’s your locking wheel nut key. Many cars have one special nut on each wheel that can only be removed with this unique key, to prevent theft. Without it, you're stuck. Always know where it is! If you've bought a used car, it's worth running a car history check and physically checking the car to ensure the key is present before you need it.
• "I've lost my locking wheel nut key!"
  Oh dear. Your options are to contact your car's main dealer for a replacement (they'll need your car's details) or call a specialist mobile tyre fitter who has tools to remove them. Don't try to chisel it off yourself—you'll likely cause expensive damage to your wheel. You can also see our guide on how to replace lost or broken car keys for related advice.
• "What's the deal with this skinny 'space-saver' spare?"
  Think of it as a get-out-of-jail-free card, not a permanent solution. It's designed to save weight and space in the boot, but it comes with strict limitations:
  • Speed: Do not exceed 50 mph.
  • Distance: It’s for temporary use only, typically for a maximum of 50 miles.
  • Handling: Your car's braking and cornering will be significantly worse. Drive with extra care.
• "My flat is on a front wheel. Can I put the space-saver there?"
  On a front-wheel-drive car, it's better to have your best tyres on the front axle for steering and braking. The 'gold standard' advice is to move a full-size rear wheel to the front, and then put the space-saver on the back. It’s more work, but it’s the safest option.

The Aftermath: You're Not Done Yet

Just because the spare is on doesn't mean the job is over.

1. Check the Pressure: The spare tyre may have been sitting in your boot for years and lost pressure. At the next petrol station, check its pressure and inflate it to the level specified in your car's handbook. Ignoring this can be one of the dangers of low tyre tread or pressure.
2. Get it Fixed: Your spare is temporary. Drive to a garage as soon as possible to get your punctured tyre repaired or replaced.
3. Re-check the Nuts: After driving for about 30 miles, it's good practice to pull over and give the wheel nuts another check to make sure they're still tight.

Changing a tyre might seem daunting, but it’s a skill that gives you real independence on the road. By taking it slow, prioritising safety, and following these steps, you can turn a moment of panic into a moment of pride. You got this.

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