How to Change Your Car's Oil and Filter: A UK Guide

Terry Twoo

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Summary

• Gather Supplies: You need the correct grade of oil, a new oil filter specific to your car, a socket set, an oil filter wrench, a drain pan, and safety gear like axle stands and gloves.
• Safety First: Always work on a flat surface. Use axle stands to support the car's weight after lifting it with a jack. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
• Follow the Process: Warm the engine slightly, drain the old oil via the sump plug, replace the oil filter, refit the sump plug with a new washer, and refill with the correct amount of new oil, checking the level with the dipstick.
• Dispose Legally: Old engine oil is hazardous waste. It is illegal to pour it down the drain or on the ground. Take the used oil and old filter to your local household waste recycling centre.

Thinking about changing your car’s oil and filter yourself? Good for you. It's one of those classic car maintenance jobs that seems daunting at first, but is genuinely one of the most satisfying and money-saving tasks you can learn. Garages in the UK can charge a pretty penny for what is, essentially, a straightforward process.

Forget the dry, technical manuals. Let's walk through this like a real conversation. This is your complete guide to getting it done right, with all the safety tips, tools needed, and a step-by-step process that actually makes sense.

First Things First: Why Bother and What Do You Actually Need?

Changing your oil is like giving your car a blood transfusion. Old, dirty oil is full of gunk and grit that grinds away at the engine's insides. Fresh, clean oil lubricates everything, reduces friction, helps with cooling, and keeps your engine happy and healthy for longer. The filter? That's the liver, catching all the nasty bits. You wouldn't want a clogged-up liver, and neither does your car.

Is It Legal to Do This on My Driveway?

Yes, absolutely. In the UK, you are perfectly within your rights to perform maintenance like an oil change on your own car on private land, like your driveway or in your garage. The big no-no, and where the law gets involved, is the disposal of the old oil. We’ll get to that – it’s a big deal.

The Shopping List: Your Tools and Supplies

You don't need a professional-grade workshop, but you do need a few specific bits of kit.

The Absolute Essentials:

• The Right Oil: This is non-negotiable. Your car’s handbook is your bible here. It will tell you the exact type (e.g., 5W-30), specification (e.g., ACEA C3), and quantity (e.g., 4.7 litres) you need. Don't just grab any bottle off the shelf.
• A New Oil Filter: Again, get one that's specific to your car. Your registration number is all you need at the car parts shop.
• Spanner or Socket Set: You'll need the right size for the sump drain plug. A good socket set is a great investment for any budding home mechanic.
• Oil Filter Wrench: These come in a few flavours – a chain, a strap, or a cap that fits over the end. They're essential because filters are often screwed on tighter than a jam jar lid.
• An Oil Drain Pan: Something to catch the old oil. A dedicated pan with a spout is best, but an old washing-up bowl will do in a pinch (just don't plan on using it for dishes ever again!). Make sure it’s big enough to hold all your car’s oil.
• Jack and Axle Stands: Ramps work too. This is a critical safety point. You will be getting under your car. A jack is only for lifting; axle stands are for holding. Never, ever, ever work under a car supported only by a jack. They can and do fail. Ensure you're familiar with essential vehicle safety checks.
• Gloves and Rags: Used engine oil is nasty stuff. A box of disposable nitrile gloves is a godsend. You’ll also need plenty of old rags or paper towels.

Nice-to-Haves:

• A Funnel: Saves you from pouring new oil all over your engine.
• A New Sump Plug Washer: This is a little copper or aluminium ring that crushes to create a perfect seal. They're pennies to buy and highly recommended to prevent leaks.
• A Headtorch: Makes seeing what you’re doing under the car a thousand times easier.
• Wheel Chocks: Extra safety to stop the car from rolling. A couple of bricks will do the job too.

How to Change Your Car’s Oil and Filter: The Step-by-Step Guide

Right, let's get our hands dirty. Give yourself a good hour or two if it's your first time. No need to rush.

Step 1: Get the Car Ready

First, park on a flat, level surface. This is important for safety and for making sure all the old oil drains out properly.

Now for a pro tip: run the engine for just 2-3 minutes. You don't want it hot, just warm. Warm oil is thinner and flows out much more easily, taking more of the suspended gunk with it. If it's scorching hot, you risk burning yourself, so let it cool down for 20 minutes before you start.

Pop the bonnet and unscrew the oil filler cap (the one with the little oil can symbol). This helps the oil drain out smoothly, like taking the second cap off a juice carton.

Step 2: Lift and Secure the Car

This is the most important safety step. Chock the rear wheels. Use your jack on the correct jacking point at the front of the car (your manual will show you where) to lift it high enough to work underneath. Now, slide your axle stands into place under strong parts of the chassis, and gently lower the car onto them. Give the car a good shove to make sure it's rock solid before you even think about getting under it.

Step 3: Drain the Swamp Monster (The Old Oil)

Slide underneath with your drain pan, wrench, and some rags. Find the engine's oil pan (the sump) – it's the big metal pan at the very bottom of the engine. On that pan, you'll find the drain plug.

Position your drain pan directly underneath the plug. Now, using your spanner or socket, turn the plug anti-clockwise. It might be stiff. Once it's loose, you should be able to unscrew it by hand.

Heads up: As you undo the last thread, the oil will come out. And it might come out fast and hot. Pull the plug away quickly and get your arm out of the way. Don’t worry if you drop the plug in the pan; you can fish it out later.

Let it drain completely. This will take a few minutes. Go and make a cup of tea.

Step 4: Deal with the Filter

While the last drips are coming out, find the oil filter. It’s a metal canister, usually screwed into the side of the engine block. It might be a bit awkward to get to.

Slide your drain pan underneath it, as it will also have some oil in it. Use your oil filter wrench to loosen it (again, anti-clockwise). Once it’s loose, you can usually unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. Keep it upright as you remove it, then tip the contents into the drain pan.

Before you fit the new one, check that the old filter’s rubber gasket came off with it. Sometimes they stick to the engine, and fitting a new filter on top of an old gasket is a guaranteed recipe for a massive oil leak.

Grab your new filter. Dip a gloved finger in your new oil and smear a thin film of it onto the rubber gasket of the new filter. This helps it create a perfect seal and makes it easier to get off next time.

Now, screw the new filter on by hand. Tighten it until the gasket makes contact, then give it another three-quarters of a turn. That's it. Do not use the wrench to tighten it, as you can easily overtighten and damage the seal.

Step 5: Plug It Up and Fill 'er Up

By now, the old oil should have finished draining. Wipe the drain plug clean with a rag and pop on your new crush washer. Screw the plug back into the sump by hand to avoid cross-threading it, then tighten it with your wrench. It needs to be snug, but don't go crazy and swing off it – you can strip the threads in the sump, and that’s a very bad day.

Time for the good stuff. Back up top, grab your funnel and your new oil. Slowly pour in about 80% of what the manual says you need. Don't just dump it all in at once.

Wait a couple of minutes for the oil to settle down into the sump. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, push it all the way back in, and pull it out again. Check the level. It should be near the minimum mark. Now, add the oil a little at a time, checking the dipstick between each pour until the level is right on the 'MAX' line. Do not overfill!

Put the oil filler cap back on. You're almost there.

Step 6: The Final Checks

Double-check everything is tight (filler cap, drain plug, filter). Now, start the engine. The oil pressure warning light on your dash should go out within a few seconds. Let it run for 30-60 seconds.

While it's running, have a quick look underneath for any drips from the drain plug or filter. If you see any, shut the engine off immediately and tighten things up a bit more.

If all is well, turn the engine off. Wait a good 5-10 minutes for the oil to settle again. Do a final check of the dipstick. The level will have dropped slightly as the new filter filled up. Top it up to the 'MAX' mark if needed.

Carefully lower the car off the axle stands. Job done. Take it for a gentle test drive, and when you get back, do one last dipstick check for peace of mind.

The Aftermath: What to Do with the Gunge

You now have a pan full of used, toxic oil. As mentioned, disposing of this properly is a legal requirement. Do not pour it down a drain or on the ground. It’s incredibly harmful to the environment.

Pour the old oil into the now-empty new oil container using your funnel. Take this, and the old filter, to your local council household waste recycling centre (the tip). They have special containers for used engine oil. It’s a free service for householders.

What If...? A Few Common Questions

• What if I overfill it with oil? A little bit over is okay, but a lot over can be very bad. Too much oil can get churned up by the crankshaft into a foam, which doesn't lubricate properly, and can cause pressure issues and blow out engine seals. If you've seriously overfilled it, the only real solution is to drain some out from the sump plug.
• What if the drain plug is on ridiculously tight? Make sure you're turning it the right way (anti-clockwise). You might need a longer wrench for more leverage or a sharp tap on the wrench with a hammer to shock it loose.
• How often should I *really* change it? Your car's manual is the best guide. The old "every 3,000 miles" rule is outdated for modern cars and oils. Most cars today can go 10,000, 15,000, or even 20,000 miles between changes. However, an annual change is a good rule of thumb if you do low mileage. A regular check of your car's service history can tell you what was done previously.
• What's the difference between synthetic and conventional oil? Synthetic oil is engineered to be more stable, last longer, and perform better in extreme temperatures. It's more expensive but allows for longer intervals between changes. Conventional oil is fine for many older, less demanding engines. Again, use what your manual recommends.

And that's it. You've just saved yourself a good chunk of cash and learned a valuable skill. It gets quicker and easier every time, and there’s a real satisfaction in knowing you’re looking after your own car. Now go and enjoy that well-earned cup of tea.

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